Come to Cartajima – a small friendly Andalucian mountain village.
Paradise in fact! The air is pure, the folk friendly, the food fresh, and local traditions intact. For a resident population of less than 100, Cartajima is exceptionally well serviced:
- two bars each of which serves its own food specialities
- municipal gym open to all for the nominal payment of 10 euros a month
- outdoor exercise machines at the entrance to the village
- padel tennis court (we can lend you rackets and balls)
- swimming pool is open during the summer with a lifeguard employed by the provincial government
- two shops, in one of which you can buy steaming bread, hot from the oven.
- doctor comes every morning
- postman who will put stamps on postcards
- church service – Catholic – most Saturday evenings
The only major convenience that Cartajima does not have is a bank. There was one but it was closed a few years ago so the nearest hole in the wall is Ronda, just 15 minutes away. Nobody takes cards here (except us).
The pristine white houses, clustered together around the church, are an inspiration for many an artistic rendition.
HISTORY – Cartajima’s origins are illusive. It was probably founded by the invading Islamic forces in 711 – but any record is buried in the archives of Salamanca. Despite what you will read elsewhere, there is no sign that the Romans ventured into the delightful Alto Genal.
What is known is that in 1492 when all the non-Christians were kicked out of Spain, there were only 20 people left in Cartajima. The village was repopulated with folk from northern Spain and Portugal.
ECONOMY – The local economy is based on the fruit of the chestnut trees which fill the valley and account for the hotel name. Every family has their trees which are meticulously tended. The harvest takes place in the autumn and is celebrated with a toston or toasting.
ARCHITECTURE – Cartajima is a classic pueblo blanco of houses tightly clustered together, whitewashed walls, and narrow streets – all this reflecting the Arab origins.
CUISINE – You will read elsewhere that rabbit stew is the typical dish. It might have been at one time but no more. People eat dishes based on chicken, eggs, wild boar which I am told is freely available if you know who to ask. A classic example of a local dish is Sopa refrita, a simple but delicious winter soup based on peppers, eggs and bread.
EMPLOYMENT – Some people seek work in Ronda or on the Costa del Sol as there is little opportunity in the village unless you are prepared to take on the onerous bureaucracy of setting up your own business. But most working age people are employed by a national rural employment scheme which provides them with a pension in exchange for local work around the village, such as painting public buildings.
FESTIVALS – important celebrations include Easter, the August feria, the June romeria and the patron saint’s day in October. But in reality any excuse for a party! All festivals are celebrated with enormous good humour and generosity. They are the lucky guests whose visits coincide with one of these delightfully simple and joyful occasions.
Alto Genal Valley
Serrania de Ronda mountains
The beautiful hidden Alto Genal valley has not been discovered by tourists, nor even Conde Nast!
The valley runs through the high (“Alto”) reaches of the Rio Genal – hence the name. Next to our valley is the middle (“Medio”) Genal and then, as the river makes its way to the Mediterranean, the lower (“Bajo”) Genal.
Seven little villages (six of them are the undiscovered famous pueblos blancos) are dotted around the hillsides, hiding amongst the chestnut trees and, from a distance, looking like a string of pearls cast down by a giant. They were probably founded by the invading Islamic people from 711 CE. The Arab culture is reflected in the street layout, the architecture, and there remain vestiges in the traditional lifeways of the villagers. After 1492 everyone who was not Christian was ejected and the obvious place of retreat was nearby Morocco where towns like Tetuan reflect the same mixture of Arab and Andalucian culture. Fascinating!
called the “atalaya” or watchtower by the ancients – is the highest village in Malaga province. Pretty, flower-filled, whitewashed, the original Moorish streets are narrow and mysterious. Lovely to visit in all seasons – it is especially riotous at Easter and in August when all the “imigrantes” who moved to France in the “years of hunger”, come back for their summer holidays. The 4-day August festival is an extraordinary extravaganza of food, dance, theatre, song, and partying.
is the most populous of the Alto Genal villages with a population of about 1000. The others all have between 100 and 250 inhabitants. Igualeja is famous for being the source of the River Genal and has associated grottos with stalagtites and -mites. It has the coldest swimming pool in the area, a live Passion Play every Easter, and the only village with a Latin name. All the others are Arabic.
is the next village to Cartajima and a nice walk to from Hotel Los Castaños – the trail takes about an hour. It boasts a Moorish arch, 18th century doors and enjalbegado, the practice of whitewashing directly onto stone without first plastering.
was called for some inexplicable reason “a white swan on a pool of hope” by Ernest Hemingway. I have no idea what he meant and neither does anybody else. Perhaps you do? The village is renowned for high quality pork.
is the birthplace of a Capuchin monk who has achieved fame as a miracle worker and has been nominated for sainthood. It is famous nowadays for its superb restaurant, La Casa Grande, where they have the best steaks John, a meatman, has ever tasted.
is the most remote of the villages. They say that whilst the more sophisticated Cartajimeños went to market in Ronda, Pujereños came to Cartajima. Everybody goes to Ronda these days! A visigoth king called Wamba lived there before ascending the throne. And they are reputed to have the best banda de musica in the Alto Genal!
You will be wondering what happened to the seventh village. It isn’t a pueblo blanco anymore. It’s a pueblo azul! Called Juzcar, it is the first pueblo pitufo in the world.
Ronda is a city of dreams as Rilke famously commented in 1912.
“He buscado por todas partes la ciudad soñada, y al fin la he encontrado en Ronda…..No hay nada más inesperado en España que esta ciudad salvaje y montañera”.
“I searched all over for the city of dreams and at last I found Ronda….. in Spain nothing is more unexpected than this wild mountain city.”
Holiday in Ronda, Andalucia
Ronda has fascinating historical roots, great places to eat and drink and shop. One can easily spend a whole day wandering the ancient streets, popping into tiny bars for a refreshment, admiring the leather shoes on Calle la Bola, and then enjoying a lovely late lunch in one of Ronda’s good restaurants and superb innovative gastro tapas bars.
One of Ronda’s claims to fame is that modern bullfighting was developed here in the 18th century. The plaza de toros is either the oldest or the second oldest in Spain. Even if you are anti-blood sports, the story told by the museum at the bullring is a fascinating historical social journey.
We have developed a self-guided walking tour of Ronda which will take you by all the sights. We can also advise on where to find the best coffee, glass of wine, or tapas!
Or How I discovered Cartajima in the Alto Genal
– by Di Beach, owner of Los Castaños
Ten years ago I swapped sexy, sophisticated San Francisco for a remote Andalucian hamlet. Rather than power walking around Stow Lake in Golden Gate Park every morning, I now amble down chestnut and olive covered mountain slopes, seldom encountering another human being. It is what you might call a far cry.
This dramatic lifestyle change came about partly because of nine-eleven. I didn’t exactly flee the States but one-way flights to Europe were irresistibly cheap and the untroubled Spanish mountains were beckoning. I had lived on the Costa del Sol long ago so it felt like going home. America had been fun, but a tad too competitive for me. It was dispiriting awakening every morning to the realization that I would never make a good corporate cog. And I never learned to shop. After twelve years in the New World it was time to return to the Old. Apart from the bargain flights, I had a dream to follow that had been gestating for a couple of years.
A vision of a place in Andalucia, Spain’s southerlymost province – I am still searching for the word to describe a 5-bedroom family-run hotel that offers elegant comfort and delicious dinner-party style meals, personal tours of historical sites and insights into traditional Andalucian culture and much more. A place where people will come to vacation and see how pleasantly less stressful the simpler life is. If a suitably descriptive word occurs to you, please contact me! (firstname.lastname@example.org)
The perfect location awaited us; we (my daughter, her 5-year old son, and I) simply had to find it. Our first criterion was it must be affordable; much of the southern Spain, particularly near the coasts, is as expensive as San Francisco and we don’t have that sort of money as mentioned above. The second was that the property should be near one of the pueblos blancos, the ancient white villages of Andalucia that reflect Moorish architecture and lifestyle with their high-density living and narrow alleyways. Thirdly, a largish town should be within easy reach. Lastly, and most importantly, the village had to be Spanish and not foreign-dominated. Our anticipated guests expected real Spain, not a watered-down parody.
Hours spent Googling had revealed, I thought, my future home before leaving the States. Genalguacil was a village behind Estepona, close to the coast and the airport, which seemed at first glance highly desirable. We visited it at lunchtime one weekday but found no sign of life – nobody in the streets, no children playing, just the odd mongrel asleep in the sun. The local venta (country restaurants located on the edge of towns) was empty. This was a bad sign. You can walk into any venta in Spain at 2 pm and find the place teeming with workmen enjoying their standard 3-course lunch with wine. This is one of the really civilized aspects of this wild, anarchistic land. We returned to the village a second time, at the hour of the evening paseo or stroll when most Spanish towns are bustling with their residents dressed in their best, but found it still abandoned. The narrow white streets were silent and, when we shushed Eli for raising his voice slightly, we realized we were in the wrong place. This is not what Spain is about – children are accepted as part of life and are never shushed.
There was a lot of art in this village though which was intriguing. On every corner a statue or sculpture, on every wall a mural. We learned that the art was a scheme dreamed up by the village authorities in an effort to promote the town which, like the other white villages, was in danger of becoming a ghost town. Life has never been easy in this part of Andalucia and people have usually had to seek work elsewhere, usually in France or Morocco. The source of lucrative employment is closer now, on the coast, so young people leave and only the older people remain in the villages. The government is providing some incentives but the only sustainable solution is a responsible tourist industry. In this particular village somebody had the bright idea of an art festival every other year. Artists come from all over the world (once from Mexico, they proudly told us), work on a piece for four days, and then donate it to the town. It was innovative and lent a certain charm but sadly we left the town realizing that it was not the paradise we sought. We heard afterwards that foreigners were not particularly welcome so it was as well we turned our attentions elsewhere.
We wandered Andalucia getting ever further away from the coast and the inflation. But the prices followed us. Simple country people knew enough about the real estate market to add a few million pesetas to their price. It was discouraging and yet we could not blame them. On one excursion to a town far north of the coast we were offered a piece of land covered with olive trees for a considerable sum which was reduced to nothing if I would simply marry the owner. The whole mountainside would be mine, he insisted, gripping my arm. A slightly embarrassing situation turned into a joke when, later in the day, we saw the same gentleman with his wife.
Our first few excursions into distant areas were fruitless. It is hard to know what is for sale in an area where real estate agents and their For Sale signs don’t exist. The occasional hand-written “Se Vende” was the most one could hope for. Instead of real estate agents, most largish Spanish towns have a self-appointed “corredor” literally a runner, who acts as a broker but the villages we discovered were too remote or too small to warrant one. In time we learned that it was not rude to knock on a door and ask the residents if their house was for sale. If it was not, which was usually the case, the man of the house invariably escorted us on a wild-property chase around the countryside. One time after walking for an hour away from the settlement we found ourselves alone on a deserted hillside with two men with shotguns. My daughter was quite rightly nervous. But all they wanted was to sell their barren land at an inflated price to ignorant foreigners.
In a town further south we thought we had found our goal. Jimera de Libar nestled seductively in a wooded valley, through which the railway from Algeciras to Ronda ran, stopping at a series of quaint little stations. There was a delightful restaurant at the station where we inquired of the lady owner about available property. The information that the town had a mayoress rather than a mayor was exciting. A little wary after encountering anti-foreigner sentiments elsewhere, we decided to call on the honorable lady and present our idea. Nervously we rang the ayuntamiento (town hall) to make an appointment, researched the correct way to address her, “Señora Doña Ana”, and prepared a written description of our planned cultural retreat which included the benefits to the village. Attired formally in suits and heels, our relief was unbounded when the lady mayoress entered her chambers dressed in jeans, a baggy sweater, and a warm smile. After reading our proposal she commented that what interested her most was Eli, the “niño de cinco años” who we had suggested could play football for the town. A young mother, she had a personal as well as a civic interest in repopulating the town.
But this paradise turned into a nightmare when we dug a little deeper and found that a rather undesirable and non-Spanish element was trying to monopolize the real estate market. They were creating a lucrative business for themselves by selling only to foreignors and at ludicrous prices. Some of the villagers whom we asked about the situation confessed that they did not care for the people involved but, they shrugged, what could they do when offered such high prices. Real estate within reach of the coast has become a hot item as people from northern Europe flock to find their place in the sun and the business has attracted many unscrupulous rogues. I later met an English family from London’s East End who moved to Spain with the intention of opening a furniture shop. When they saw the state of the property market, however, they eagerly switched to real estate. Even though they had no experience and didn’t speak Spanish, they were making a fortune only a few months after opening their doors.
We were on the point of turning our sights reluctantly further west to the Costa de la Luz. Reluctantly, as our network of friends and contacts was on the Costa del Sol. One evening as we poring over the now rather tattered map of Andalucia planning our next foray, we noticed an area that we had hitherto overlooked. It was a cluster of tiny villages off the tourist trail but within reach of the coast. The Arabic sounding names were vaguely familiar. They were the seven villages of the Alto Genal.
On a miserable February day we drove yet again to the mountains, up the winding road north from San Pedro de Alcantara. Turning off some ten kilometers before Ronda, the scenically spectacular Roman and Phoenician town, we ventured the even narrower and more tortuous road to the first two of the seven villages: Igualeja and Pujerra. Old hands now and our property-seeking strategy well honed, we stopped a woman in the street and asked if there was much for sale. She shrugged. Over there, she said, is where you must look. Following her finger pointing across the valley, we looked over to a village in the distance reclining like a sleeping cat along a mountain ridge. White houses were glittering in sunlight that had not yet reached the north-facing slope where we stood. We retraced our steps back to the main road and across to the south-facing slopes and the remaining five villages that adorn the mountain like a string of wide-set pearls.
The little village of Cartajima was six kilometers along a mountain road in the middle of the Serranía de Ronda, a remote area long famous as a hideout for banditos. To one side rugged rocks rose to heights of 1500 meters, to the other the mountain was covered with chestnut and olive trees. It has always been inaccessible which accounts no doubt for the fact that it is still charming and unspoiled, everything we had been seeking. In the plaza we met Catalina, an black-garbed elderly lady who greeted us openly and hospitably. Her son delivers the mail every day and a more erudite man one could not wish to meet. This was an excellent start.
As we walked around chatting to people and looking at property, we knew that the village met all our requirements. Property was still eminently affordable although I am sure the prices we ended up paying were extortionate by village standards. Not only was the property we bought within walking distance of a pueblo blanco but it was in the very heart of one. I had never dared hope for this. Our house is located in the square by the ayuntamiento (town hall) and the church, the estanco where they sell candy and tobacco and the facsimile post office, virtually a man and a rusty mailbox attached to a wall. The fleshpots of Ronda are only ten kilometers away: ruined Arab baths, Islamic minaret, restaurants, and convents selling dulces, sweets. These convents are closed Carmelite orders of Descalzas (barefoot) nuns to which wealthy noblewomen were sent during the years after the Reconquist in 1492. Their money enriched the convent and they made cakes to send home to their families. As Spain declined, so did the convents and the nuns were reduced to poverty. During the nineteen-fifties they were given a dispensation to sell their dulces to the public as long as they remained hidden. The solution to this problem is a revolving shelf, torno, in the small room set aside for these transactions. One chooses ones dulces from a posted pricelist and rings the bell to summon a nun. Tell her what you want, put the money in the revolving door, and the cakes appear.
Most importantly, Cartajima is a Spanish village full of 200 Spanish people all of whom are to a greater or lesser degree related to each other. We had a party over Christmas and invited our Spanish village friends as well as our English and American friends. Several of the villagers asked who these people were. Were they family? If not, how did we know them? Their society is tight and closed and most people seldom leave the village except for shopping trips to nearby Ronda. Some not even that. While the surrounding landscape is forbidding and challenging, the people are friendly and benign and their only fear for us is that we are not contentos. “Estais contentos?” they asked us for the first six months we were living amongst them. Are you happy here? We hasten to reassure them that we are all exceedingly contento and especially the five-year old. Does he like the school? They ask. He loves the school. He has never been happier. He races off every morning to find the other eight children and together they go the few meters to the schoolhouse at the end of the village. His education is tailored to his needs and he is allowed to progress at his own speed. Although this is a passionately Catholic country, the study of religion is optional. As he already knew more arithmetic than the curriculum required for this year, the teacher has brought in more books to keep him engaged. A second language is introduced at age 8. Peripatetic teachers of English, music, physical education, and religion come twice a week to each of the seven villages that make up the Alto Genal. Idyllic really.
There is a bakery that produces bread in a wood-fired oven and a little store that sells a few essentials at relatively high cost. The bank opens for a few hours every morning. There is a pharmacy in Ana’s front room. Knock on the door if it isn’t open. If what you want is not in stock, she will order it and it arrives within twenty-four hours. The doctor comes four mornings a week from Ronda and I was waiting for a trivial complaint to arise with which to test his expertise. The necessity for syringing an ear before a long-haul flight provided the perfect opportunity. I sat in the bare consulting area with the old women who were delighted to have a chance to quiz their new neighbor, “la inglesa”. When it was my turn the doctor gave me some drops and told me to come back in a few days and to bring a large bottle of warm water and a towel. Que? I asked in surprise. We only have cold water in this office, was his explanation.
Incidents like this aside, it is staggering the progress that Spain has made in the intervening years since I lived here in the seventies and even more amazing to consider the state of the nation at the end of the Civil War in 1939. People were so poor, particularly in Andalucia, that they were reduced to eating grass. The social programs that exist now are as good as I have seen anywhere. The level of technology is as advanced as the States or northern Europe. The infrastructure is for the most part totally modern. And yet quality of life, often sacrificed for modernity, remains intact. The Spanish people still value community more than goods. They still go out of their way to help a stranger. Their fiesta days are numerous. They still believe in mañana.
It is indeed a far cry from San Francisco. Except for the mist that sweeps in during the winter months totally obscuring the spectacular panoramic views of the surrounding mountain range, Cartajima has little in common with my erstwhile home. Do I miss the City? Yes, I miss the bookshops, the restaurants, the views, and a few special people. Oh! And the sushi of course!