There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worth doing as simply messing about with Peter Jones. A day in the company of this (in)famous research biologist is entertaining and informative. If you are just a dabbler with birds, you will learn a lot. If you are a card-carrying twitcher, he can still teach you …

At last, “sin semillas” have arrived in Ronda! This may seem of little importance to those of you living in California or England where you have had seedless grapes for years. (how do they propagate?) But, here in Spain, where it is of the utmost importance, they have only recently appeared. Why important? Because the …

New insights into the rocks of Ronda Serrania! Not only are they aesthetically pleasing being of a delightful greenish hue which blends charmingly with the pine trees as one drives up from the coast (see Previous blog for details) but recent research reveals that they could play an important role in reducing climate change. Dr …

With a population of just over a hundred, Cartajima is a fraction of the town it was a hundred years ago when there were about 1000 residents. Young people leave now for lucrative jobs in tourism or construction on the Costa del Sol and return only for festivals when the population swells to probably 300. …

Michelle Obama will come within six kilometres of Cartajima today on her way to visit Ronda. But she will never know we are here! The map certainly wouldn’t reveal the secret. Who would be idiotic enough to open a hotel in a village that is not on most maps! Many people, including bank managers, agreed …

Some of the ladies from Cartajima’s women’s association came for breakfast at Los Castaños this morning. Flowery dresses amid the blossoms of the patio! In the cool of the morning, they enjoyed their Andalucian breakfast of toast, olive oil, and tomato sprinkled with salt. Those of you who have visited Los Castaños will recognise Silvia, …

After arriving at Malaga airport, you have a choice of two routes to the Alto Genal valley – and the jewel in its crown, Los Castanos! One goes along the Costa del Sol freeway (toll road) and then up a spectacularly scenic mountain road. The alternative is gentler on the nerves as the ascent is …

Different cultures have dreamed up imaginative ways to limit women’s mobility, to control and oppress them. Now then, chaps, don’t stop reading! This won’t be hard and you know it’s true! Islam throws a black shroud over their women; the Chinese broke women’s feet so they couldn’t run away; female genital mutilation is all about …

A cooking lesson from the kitchen of Los Castaños.  All the secrets of making a Spanish Omelette – or tortilla de patatas as it is called in Spanish. Very easy, incredibly cheap, extremely tasty! Let me know how you get on.

A walk with rocks in the Sierra de las Nieves With the help of Google Earth, we cobbled together a stunning hike in the nearby Parque Natural Sierra de las Nieves. It is a walk with much to offer from a griffon vulture perching place (clap your hands just after the sun is up and …

When next you drive the spectacular mountain road from San Pedro de Alcántara to Ronda, check out the rocks on the right hand side of the road. Best to have a designated driver for this investigation so as to avoid the precipitous drop on the other side. In the “old days” this route was fraught …

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Balinese food in Spain! How unlikely! We were fortunate to have Gani from Bali staying with us for a few days of working holiday via the Workaway site. Like all our Workaway experiences, it was a fascinating exchange of culture and ideas. Gani  began his working life at a very young age gathering seashells on …

A 15-year old Andalucian boy growing up in the remote pueblo blanco of Cartajima, with no access to fine restaurants, decides to be a chef. Fourteen years later he has climbed to the lofty heights of this competitive and demanding profession and is on his way to being a star in the gastronomic world. Young …

A recent guest of Los Castaños set off for Ronda one evening in search specifically of a paella for dinner. Startled by their choice, I really wanted to advise them that this was not a good idea. At best they would find a mass-produced, frozen facsimile at an unexciting pizza cafe. I would rather have …

But Spring Has Finally Sprung!! The Alto Genal Valley suddenly changed colour a few days ago – from winter browns to the greens of Spring. The sweet chestnuts, basis of the local economy, burst into resplendent leaf. The transformation is dramatic and one has to ask whether Cartajima’s traditional Spring appeal to the gods brought …

ll is peaceful on Good Friday. Quiet and normal. But by midnight, Catholicism takes a back seat while Paganism takes over. Easter Saturday. There is a seemingly endless supply of dynamite that the men send scudding down the streets and into the air. They go down to the forests and, amid drinking and conch-blowing, haul …

On the road to Cartajima from Parauta, just at the side of the road, is a circular pit about four metres diameter and about the same depth although it is hard to tell how deep it could have been due to rockfall etc. As you can see from the photos, it is built into the …

The walking season in the Alto Genal is off to a fabulous start this week as Los Castaños filled up with people looking forward to a week of “senderismo” as it is called in Spanish. They have been so lucky with the weather. The rains, which I believe the rest of the world reported as …

My Internet spooks inform me that “Where is Ronda?” is a question frequently asked of Google.  I can answer this question definitively and extensively, thus crowning myself with fame and glory. Ronda is located on latitude: 36° 43′ 60 N and longitude: 5° 10′ 0 W. How´s that! No GPS to hand? Here’s another way …

First, let me hasten to say that he called himself “the crazy American”! I don’t think he is crazy at all but remarkably sane. Too few people take the chance that he took when he insisted upon coming to Los Castaños as the jumping off point for an extended European cycling adventure. Just him, his …

The wine cellar at Los Castaños being rather ravaged by recent festivities and, with the season of thirsty walkers fast approaching, we visited our local Ronda vineyard, Joaquin Fernandez, to restock. This delightful experience usually involves a chat and a tapa but today we were treated to lunch and a cata (tasting). A unique feature …

When I opened Los Castanos nearly six years ago, one of the several special things I wanted to give my guests was home-made brown bread for their breakfast. I come from a long line of brown breadmakers and longed to continue the tradition. My guests loved it. Commented on it. Praised me for it. “What …

Yesterday was a most gorgeous day here in the Serrania de Ronda. It had snowed the night before and covered the distant peaks of the appropriately named Sierra de las Nieves. The sun shone brilliantly in our valley. A perfect almost-Spring day!

Water, as we all know, is the new gold. Cartajima is thus very fortunate to have abundant amounts of the clear stuff. And, we can thank a Moorish hermit who lived up in Los Riscos (the craggy mountains that form the backdrop to this little white village). They tell the story in the village of …

I know you aren´t interested in what I had for lunch yesterday. Neither am I. However, you would surely be as intrigued as I was to be offered Creaking Goat Cheese followed by Hake Supreme with Gluttony and Prawns. These were both on offer at one of our favourite lunchtime places which is tucked in …