We walked up to the mirador to catch the last of the sun in the late afternoon yesterday. The chestnut trees have lost their leaves but the sun continues to shine.

December in Cartajima

Having been the one in charge of food every Christmas of my adult life, I decided this year upon an unprecedented and unanimous break with tradition – we would go out for our Christmas Lunch. The food was naturally not as good as at home but the absence of worry, preparation and washing-up more than compensated. We took before and after pictures so you can appreciate just how relaxed we were!! Happy New Year from Los Castanos in Cartajima!

Before

After!

Unlike previous solar experiments, cobbled together from bits and pieces that John found in his pockets, the new solar panels gracing the roof of Los Castanos were purchased ready-made. Their  neo-industrial look contrasts delightfully with the backdrop of the ochre pantile roofed village houses, the stunning mountains peaking through the tubes, and the quaint old-fashioned TV aerials!

A solar thermal collector is almost as common a feature of Spanish roofs as the television aerial. World leader in producing renewable energy, Spain began its innovative policy after the 1979 fuel crisis with an initiative accounting for Spain’s world domination of sustainable fuel production. The law aimed to encourage energy savings and decrease dependence upon others.

Well done, España!

I first visited the Sierra one cold winter’s day in the company of a park ranger. He showed us the secrets of this stunning protected area which has won many awards: a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, a Nature Reserve, a Special Protection Area for Birds (SPA), and a Site of Community Importance (SCI).

Whilst I was wearing everything cashmere that I owned, the ranger appeared cosy in just an open-neck shirt. When he showed us the ruin of his childhood home deep in the sierra, his hardiness was no longer surprising.

He took us to see an enormous pinsapo pine, a species of spruce that only grows here and in northern Morocco. This giant was estimated to be between 350 and 500 years old. 5 metres diameter, 26 metres high, a monster that shades 200 square metres. The people of the Sierra have a legend that a generous and hospitable woman used to live on the spot where the tree grows. Her dedication to helping travellers continued after her death for the pinsapo grew here to be a guiding landmark for travellers.

Not just big trees but, our guide told us, one of the largest populations of wild goat in Andalucia, deep and spectacular gorges such as the Caina with a 1,100 metre drop, mountain peaks up to 1,919m, and potholes aplenty.

It is staggering the varied ways people have interacted with this apparently difficult environment – our ranger friend told us about the traditional crafts: the ice-makers, charcoal burners, lime-workers, shepherds, and farmers. Check out this page for lots of information about the Sierra.

A later trip some years later was in glorious blue-skied Spring. We were crafting a hike in the Sierra for our walking guests and discovered another extraordinary if chilling facet of the Nieves. At the end of a rather well-made piece of track, we found a tumbledown circle of rocks. Research revealed that the front line in the Civil War for six months had been the road from the coast to Ronda. From the rubble of rocks, we looked directly down on the road far below. The perfect place from which to control the whole area.

Whilst the scars of that terrible war remain on the ground, the only creatures spying down on the road nowadays are the majestic griffon vultures.

The annual Mosto Festival in Cartajima. Whilst the wine is not so great, the party is! And the accommodation we offer is of course second to none. Combine the Festival on the 26th November with a visit to a fine Ronda vineyard (now that’s a lovely wine!), untouristy delightful local restaurants, bracing walks in the Alto Genal Valley.

Peter Jones, renowned ornithologist, is offering 3-day winter birding breaks – please ask for a special rate if you are joining him on one of his tours. Click here for more information or ask me  – http://www.spanishnature.com/component/content/article/1-birding-days-serrania-de-ronda/170-winter-breaks-day-tours.html

Pujerra, one of the seven little villages in the Alto Genal, celebrates with gusto the chestnut harvest on 29th and 30th October.

Juzcar, the blue pueblo blanco, is hosting the annual conference on mushrooms – well, edible fungi in general – on 11th, 12th and 13th November. Contact me for more information or check out this page – http://www.juzcar.com/?p=1620

If you would like any further information about any of these events, just write us a note and we will be pleased to help.

When rumours of Sony Pictures’ idea to paint Juzcar blue were whispered in the narrow alleys of the Alto Genal villages, I confess to being somewhat disgruntled that our mayor had not been more proactive in seeking ways to promote our village, Cartajima.

But, when I see what has happened to Juzcar – the crowds and mindlessness of it all – I am pleased we remain pristine and off the beaten track. How sad that prosperity comes at such a price. How interesting that people will travel miles just to see the blue walls of Juzcar. How illuminating that a simple gesture by a multinational corporation has such an effect on a tiny village in the middle of nowhere. How tragic that people will come to this quiet valley for a movie sensation but not for the nourishing peace of the mountains, the sweet chestnut forests, and the gentle traditional villagers.

Whilst the peace may no longer be available in Juzcar, Cartajima remains untouched by it all.

Not that it wasn’t much better before but we have passed all the stringent requirements to become part of this great collection of purveyors of adventure. It was a tough ride with many searching questions but we were approved.

From the beginning of Los Castaños I have been committed to trying to resolve the apparent paradox of providing a luxurious experience for my guests but limiting damage to the community and environment.  The process we have been through with Muchbetteradventures.com, who have a strong ongoing commitment to sustainability, has been fascinating.  I have discovered new ways to be “green” and have been made aware of flaws in my existing systems.

A simple example which, for a person of my immense intelligence, should have been obvious. The pics show wrappings from some ingredients for tonight’s beef and prune tagine. (Mmmmm!) Before becoming muchbetter, I would have chucked it in the bin without a thought – looks like garbage, must be garbage. But now, I take a closer look at every piece of wrapping and more often than not discover the telltale markings – it is all recyclable! Cool!

Here’s how they describe themselves:

“muchbetteradventures.com is a community powered adventure travel guide, specially designed to support local businesses and reward true ethical practice. You can get in direct contact with members through the site, avoid paying commissions, and check out reviews from others who have been.

They worked closely with Sustainable Travel International and The Travel Foundation to develop a careful sustainability vetting procedure, so you can be sure that if someone claims to be ‘muchbetter’, they will be just that! The long-term aim is to build the widest and fairest selection of ethical adventure travel choices that outdoor lovers have ever seen, and bring support to many important conservation and community development projects around the world.”

You can check out our profile here: http://www.muchbetteradventures.com/profile/los-castanos and cruise around the site.  If you have stayed with us and would like to leave a review, we would be most appreciative. It will help us benefit from the site, and spread the word to your friends.

And for a quick giggle, check out Dick Cheney’s green suggestions!

Follow Us